FAQ's - Acne Skin Treatments

Serving Beverly Hills, Los Angeles, Newport Beach and Orange County, California

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WHAT IS ACNE?

Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous hair follicles. Each follicle contains a tiny hair and multiple sebaceous glands. Under normal circumstances, sebum, the oily substance made by the sebaceous glands, travels up the hair follicle and out to the skin's surface. However, with acne, sebum is trapped within the follicle and skin bacteria (P. acnes) multiplies within the clogged pores. These bacteria make chemicals that stimulate inflammation and cause the wall of the follicle to break. The sebum, bacteria, and shed skin cells spill into the skin causing redness, swelling, and pus - a pimple. This process commonly begins during puberty when male hormones found in both males and females rise, stimulating and enlarging the sebaceous glands of the skin. Acne develops on those areas of the skin where sebaceous glands are most numerous: the face, scalp, neck, chest, back, and upper arms and shoulders.

IS IT CAUSED BY DIRT?

Acne is not a result of uncleanness or infrequent washing. In other words, acne does not result from too much "dirt" on the skin or in the pores. The black in a blackhead is dried oil and shed skin cells in the openings of the hair follicles, not dirt. For the normal care of your skin, wash your face with soap and warm water twice a day. Too much scrubbing may actually make acne worse. Face washing should be limited to two to three times a day. Regular shampooing is also recommended. If your hair is oily, you may want to wash it more often. Men with acne who shave should try both an electric and a safety razor to see which is more comfortable. If you use a safety razor, soften your beard thoroughly with soap and warm water before applying shaving cream. To avoid nicking pimples, shave as lightly as possible. Shave only when necessary and always use a sharp blade.

IS IT CAUSED BY EATING JUNK FOOD?

Acne does not come from eating a lot of so-called bad foods such as chocolate or fried foods. Doctors have differing opinions on the importance of your diet in the management of acne. One thing is certain; a strict diet by itself will not clear your skin. On the other hand, if certain foods seem to make your acne worse, then try to avoid them. But be careful about jumping to conclusions, acne may get better or worse on its own. It is always important to eat a well balanced diet.

WHAT COSMETICS CAN OR CAN'T I USE?

If you wear a liquid foundation or use a moisturizer, look for ones that are oil-free and not just water-based. Choose products that are "non-comedogenic" (should not cause whiteheads or blackheads) or "non-acnegenic" (should not cause acne). Remove your cosmetics every night with soap and water. A flesh-tinted acne lotion containing benzoyl peroxide, salicylic acid or sulfur can safely hide blemishes. Loose powder mixed with oil-free product is also good for cover-up. You should also shield your face when applying hair sprays and gels

HOW DO YOU TREAT ACNE?

The treatment of acne starts with optimizing the care of your skin by following the above advice and having regular facial treatments from a licensed aesthetician. Don't pick, scratch, pop or squeeze your pimples yourself. When the pimples are squeezed, more redness, swelling, inflammation and scarring may result. Women who are taking birth control pills may notice a significant improvement in their acne, and these pills are sometimes used specifically for the treatment of acne. It is also important to know that oral antibiotics may decrease the effectiveness of birth control pills. This is uncommon but possible, especially if you notice break-through bleeding. As with most medicines, check with your doctor about taking antibiotics if you are pregnant or nursing, or if you are trying to get pregnant.

HOW DO YOU TREAT MILD ACNE?

Benzoyl peroxide 2.5% gel is a good first treatment choice for mild acne. It is a mild bactericidal (anti-bacterial) compound. It simultaneously decreases the organism concentration and the amount of free fatty acids available on the surface of the skin. For mild to moderate acne, all trans-retinoic acid (tretinoin or retin-A) is usually the next step in treatment. Retin-A is a topical preparation with established efficacy. It works by decreasing the stickiness of skin cells. Existing pimples clear up as the plugs obstructing the follicles resolve because retin-A increases the turnover of skin cells and new acne formation decreases. If retin-A alone does not improve the skin sufficiently, it can be combined with topical or oral antibiotics such as Clindamycin or Tetracycline.

WHAT IF MODERATE ACNE DOESN'T RESPOND?

If this course of treatment is unsuccessful, light based acne therapy should be the next step. We recommend Blue Light and Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) treatments. Each of these light treatments have been tailored to be maximally effective against acne bacteria and sebaceous glands.

Blue Light systems bathe the area treated in light that is tuned to a range of wavelengths specific for killing acne bacteria and reducing the activity of sebaceous glands. Blue Light treatments are completely painless and cause no swelling, redness or other side effects. When combined with a good regimen of extraction facials, microdermabrasion and chemical peels, this is a gentle and effective way of clearing moderate acne.

When used for acne treatment, IPL systems like our Palomar StarLux emit light with two main wavelengths – one specific for destroying acne bacteria (P. acnes) and one specific for decreasing the secretions of overactive sebaceous glands. The treatment takes about thirty minutes to perform and leaves the patient with no swelling or bruising. Occasionally, a mild amount of redness occurs after treatment, but this is easily covered up by makeup and resolves within several hours to one day. We take great care to minimize any discomfort by using ice compresses and full strength numbing creams.

WHAT IF MORE SEVERE ACNE DOESN'T RESPOND?

For more severe cases, Isotretinoin (13-cis-retinoic acid or Accutane) has been the standard for many years. This compound is taken orally for a 20 week course. It limits the function and size of sebaceous glands and thins the epidermis. Accutane is very effective for severe, cystic acne, but is associated with side effects that range from annoying (dry lips, mouth and skin) to very dangerous (liver damage, birth defects and severe psychiatric symptoms). Fortunately, a new treatment has emerged recently. Photodynamic Therapy has been shown to be very effective for the treatment of severe acne and does not carry the side effects that have made Accutane such a dangerous medication.

HOW DOES PHOTODYNAMIC THERAPY (PDT) WORK?

In photodynamic therapy, a photosensitizer (aminolevulinic acid) is applied to the skin. This is absorbed preferentially by certain structures in the skin, such as hair follicles, oil glands, bacteria, or rapidly growing cells. Illumination with Red/Blue Light or IPL causes a reaction in the skin, resulting in destruction of the targeted tissue. The surrounding tissue, which did not absorb the chemical, is spared.

WHAT CONDITIONS CAN BE TREATED WITH PDT?

Photodynamic therapy has been effective in the treatment of actinic keratoses (pre-cancerous spots), sun damaged skin, acne, warts, and many other diseases.

HOW DOES PDT TREAT ACNE?

Photodynamic therapy improves acne by decreasing the bacteria on the skin and by shrinking the oil-producing sebaceous glands. If the oil glands produce less oil, the pores are less likely to become obstructed and pimples are much less likely to form. Without the bacteria that grows in the obstructed pores, there is less inflammation and, again, pimples are less likely to form.

IS PDT UNCOMFORTABLE?

During PDT the skin is washed several times and the activated substance is applied. Either of these may cause a mild stinging. Following treatment there may be some transient itching and a mild sunburn sensation. These should quickly resolve, but occasionally do persist for several days.

WHAT ABOUT PHOTOSENSITIVITY?

After PDT, a small amount of activated substance remains in the skin for 24 to 48 hours. Sunlight and even indoor light may affect this and cause redness and itching. Use of sunscreen and a hat will diminish these undesired effects. This is why we recommend doing PDT treatments in the late afternoon to evening and spending the day after your PDT treatment indoors. We suggest that, even on the following day, you wear a strong sun block and a hat when you go outside.

WILL I GET ITCHING OR BURNING?

Most people experience mild burning or itching for about one hour after the procedure, although this can, in some cases, last a few days. Mild to moderate redness will usually be experienced for 24 to 48 hours, although redness can, rarely, persist for several days. Only gentle emollients should be applied to the skin.

WILL I BE SWOLLEN AFTERWARDS?

Areas most likely to swell are around the eyes. This will subside within several hours. Application of ice or cold packs will help. Otherwise, swelling is rare.

WILL I PEEL AFTERWARDS?

Peeling of treated skin may occur several days after the procedure and can be alleviated by gentle washing and application of a slightly thicker moisturizer. This is also uncommon and goes away quickly.

HOW MANY TREATMENTS WILL I NEED?

This depends on the severity of your acne and on how you respond to the treatments. Some people are clear after 3 monthly treatments. Some people need a few more. The most important thing, however, is that we have seen even the most severe cases respond reliably to PDT. Even patients who have failed Accutane will respond to PDT.

SO WHY SHOULD I DO PDT INSTEAD OF ACCUTANE?

PDT does not cause the dryness and discomfort of Accutane, it is not associated with the severe medical and psychiatric possible side effects of Accutane and it is just as effective, if not more effective than Accutane.

Cosmetic Surgeon in Los Angeles

1033 Gayley Ave., Suite 104
Los Angeles, CA 90024

24955 Pacific Coast Hwy., Suite B101
Malibu, CA 90265

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